Book Review: Ametora

Ametora explores how postwar Japan absorbed, reinterpreted, and eventually elevated American style. It argues that Japanese designers, retailers, and consumers preserved forms of classic American dress that the United States itself ended up neglecting.

Before WWII, Japan was an isolated country; it had its own culture and actively protected it from outside influence. Following the defeat in 1945, an impoverished Japan was exposed to the vibrant American culture from the GIs stationed there. The soldiers planted the seeds of American style in the Japanese consciousness.

Ametora (meaning American Traditional) tells the story of how Japan was inspired and imitated American look. At first, Japanese designers were clumsily copying the attire, gradually refined the mimicry, and eventually surpassed the original. The book covers the various Japanese styles and waves from Ivy, Heavy Duty, Yankii, Vintage, and Streetwear. The Nippon youth was obsessed with style, carefully curating its wardrobe and paying close attention to the trends in the USA.

The book documents how Japan went from a conservative and impoverished country to a cultural hegemon of American style. The relentless energy, creativity, and diligence of its artisans and business people transformed the country, giving Japanese people a reputation as one of the best-dressed societies in the world. Their attitude is one of intense enthusiasm; they love garments, they have almost three times the number of clothing and style magazines as North America, despite having three times fewer people.

Japan became the center of gravity for classic American style. It studied the Ivy style more deeply than America, thanks to classic documentary work like Take Ivy. Kensuke Ishizu’s brand VAN Jacket was instrumental in introducing and popularizing American Ivy League style in Japan. Japan’s obsession with details, precision, and quality helped make it the reference for classic American style. Japanese denim is superb thanks to brands like Evisu and Studio D’Artisan. Uniqlo is a worldwide retailer that embodies the Japanese philosophy of style: elegant and precise.

As a European living in Western Canada, I often find the casual west-coast style to be a disappointment. The book made me want to take my wardrobe more seriously and reignited my interest in clothing. Japanese people’s attention to detail inspired me to look for better outfits, and to be extra attentive to the materials and craftsmanship of my garments.

I found the book refreshing and inspiring. The writing is accessible and lively, and it is impeccably documented. Ametora is a great read for anyone interested in Japanese culture, fashion history, or the global history of American style.